Car thread

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dodint
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Re: Car thread

Post by dodint »

I do rotors on BMWs about every 4th time I do pads. Find a new mechanic or do it yourself. That is criminally bad advice.

The sensor wire is one per axle and runs about $12.
PensFanInDC
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Re: Car thread

Post by PensFanInDC »

I've always been too poor to replace or machine the rotors so it's always just new pads. I don't drive a snazzy BMW or anything though...
count2infinity
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Re: Car thread

Post by count2infinity »

The U wrote:German car. Replacing brake pads for the first time on it. I was told that if I'm doing the pads I must do the rotors as well. This was before the shop even looked at my car. Not all cars are like this I was told.... just BMW, Merc, Audi, etc. Never heard this before....

"Brake pad warning light" just came on last week which means the pads are down to 25%. No grinding or squeeling or issues other than the warning light. I figured I'd swap out the pads and be all good, now I'm hearing the rotors will have to be done as well (just because). I'm suspicious.
I've only had to replace my rotors once, and that was because the break pads were that worn down they started damaging the rotors. I would get a second opinion.
The U
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Re: Car thread

Post by The U »

Thanks for the quick feedback guys. This is basically what I figured. Will get a 2nd opinion and hopefully avoid spending unnecessary $ on rotors that are most likely OK.
Gabe
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Re: Car thread

Post by Gabe »

PensFanInDC wrote:
MRandall25 wrote:
PensFanInDC wrote:I want something with decent cargo space but wont kill me on MPG. Ideas?
Are you looking big (Honda Pilot) or small (Honda CRV)
I've been considering a Pilot
I have a Mazda CX5. Amazing gas mileage (Highway 35+ MPG) and really good cargo room. The downside for all those extra miles squeezed out of the gallon is diminished power on the takeoff. It suits my needs though.
mac5155
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Re: Car thread

Post by mac5155 »

Most places don't machine rotors anymore. So if they present that as an option I'd just laugh at them.
Shyster
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Re: Car thread

Post by Shyster »

columbia wrote:What do you plan on moving in the pickup?
Have you considered that you could buy a cheaper and more fuel efficient car, just have **** delivered as needed and save money in the long run?
:thumb: Both SUVs and trucks are big, expensive, and get worse fuel economy than smaller and lighter vehicles. Unless you absolutely need the cargo capacity on a regular basis, just get a car. Or get a minivan. Haters gonna hate, but minivans offer more room than SUVs with lower weight and better fuel economy. A Honda Pilot is rated at 18/25; a Honda Odyssey gets 19/28, for example.
meow
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Re: Car thread

Post by meow »

Gabe wrote:
PensFanInDC wrote:
MRandall25 wrote:
PensFanInDC wrote:I want something with decent cargo space but wont kill me on MPG. Ideas?
Are you looking big (Honda Pilot) or small (Honda CRV)
I've been considering a Pilot
I have a Mazda CX5. Amazing gas mileage (Highway 35+ MPG) and really good cargo room. The downside for all those extra miles squeezed out of the gallon is diminished power on the takeoff. It suits my needs though.
My wife has a CX7 and the thing is absolutely terrible in the snow. Have you had your 5 in any snow?
dodint
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Re: Car thread

Post by dodint »

PensFanInDC wrote:I've always been too poor to replace or machine the rotors so it's always just new pads. I don't drive a snazzy BMW or anything though...
I was on my phone and didn't even see your post before I submitted mine. The reason I'm so annoyed by this discussion is because the BMWs aren't anything special in that regard and it gives the brand and ownership a bad name. It's a piece of metal spinning between two pieces of compressed metal material. The focus of my annoyance is the mechanic for bilking his customers out of money based on the reputation of German cars. So bad.

The only thing close to this I've had issue with is my '01 Land Rover Discovery II brake system couldn't be bled at home, it had to be hooked up to a computer and evacuated that way. I could still change the pads and rotors, though.
count2infinity
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Re: Car thread

Post by count2infinity »

woke up this morning... battery is dying in the car. has enough juice to turn on all the lights, but they all turn off if I try to start it or if I tap the brakes (causing the back lights to turn on and drain more juice). crap. bundling up to walk to autozone (only about 2 mile walk). happy saturday everyone.
count2infinity
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Re: Car thread

Post by count2infinity »

turns out it was 2 miles round trip... that mile back with a 40 pound battery was fun though.
dodint
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Re: Car thread

Post by dodint »

Up hill both ways? ;)
count2infinity
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Re: Car thread

Post by count2infinity »

dodint wrote:Up hill both ways? ;)
Ha ha, kind of. It's down hill to start, up hill to finish both ways.
mac5155
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Re: Car thread

Post by mac5155 »

For future reference, the autozone by me will deliver any order over $50.
The U
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Re: Car thread

Post by The U »

count2infinity wrote:
The U wrote:German car. Replacing brake pads for the first time on it. I was told that if I'm doing the pads I must do the rotors as well. This was before the shop even looked at my car. Not all cars are like this I was told.... just BMW, Merc, Audi, etc. Never heard this before....

"Brake pad warning light" just came on last week which means the pads are down to 25%. No grinding or squeeling or issues other than the warning light. I figured I'd swap out the pads and be all good, now I'm hearing the rotors will have to be done as well (just because). I'm suspicious.
I've only had to replace my rotors once, and that was because the break pads were that worn down they started damaging the rotors. I would get a second opinion.
Just to follow up....I indeed needed pads and rotors replaced on the front. Back were fine. $430 total.
dodint
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Re: Car thread

Post by dodint »

Cool. Just don't believe that you need rotors each time. Those should last you a long while unless you're an unusually heavy user.
mac5155
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Re: Car thread

Post by mac5155 »

phew, 430 for just the front? I did my 03 accord for $45, pads and rotors. $50 off $100 @ advance auto FTW.
dodint
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Re: Car thread

Post by dodint »

Yeah, that's a bit much, but he didn't have to get dirty. ;)

For instance, the complete front/rear kit starts at $294 and that's with new fluid and sensors. Add a new set of SS lines and it tops out at $420 without buying any race/unnecessary stuff. That's for an E36 though.

Lots of good tuner/aftermarket stuff for BMWs out there, even if you just want OEM stuff.
CBear3
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Re: Car thread

Post by CBear3 »

Focus RS, yes please.
http://jalopnik.com/2016-ford-focus-rs- ... 1683323602" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Car thread

Post by OutofFoil »

Me likely.
mac5155
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Re: Car thread

Post by mac5155 »

I had an SVT Contour at 17. looking back i cant help but laugh.
FreeCandy44
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Re: Car thread

Post by FreeCandy44 »

Anyone have any thoughts about or drive/own a Jeep Compass Sport circa 2009-2013? This particular suv is in the running to be the new fc mobile.
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Re: Car thread

Post by Shyster »

FreeCandy44 wrote:Anyone have any thoughts about or drive/own a Jeep Compass Sport circa 2009-2013? This particular suv is in the running to be the new fc mobile.
I don't have any personal experience, but from my recollection of the reviews and comparisons I've read in Car and Driver and Automobile, they didn't like it. IIRC, the reviews said stuff like it has a loud engine and a cheap-looking interior, and I also want to say the reviews panned the CVT transmission. I believe Consumer Reports also gives it a low rating. I know the Compass is based on the same platform as the late Dodge Caliber, and the car mags pretty much hated the Caliber.
meow
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Re: Car thread

Post by meow »

I had a rental Dodge Caliber once and it was the absolute worst vehicle I've ever driven.
FreeCandy44
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Re: Car thread

Post by FreeCandy44 »

Huh.....def something to think about.