So I was very excited when I read earlier this week that the New York Times had reviewed Le Bernardin once again, after its recent remodel and - to no one's real surprise - it was awarded four stars. Again. This marks a streak of 26 unbroken years with four stars from the Times, I think more than double the tenure of the previous high-timer.
Moving Ever Forward, Like a Fish
(review also linked in the story you provided, col)
The image behind the spoiler tag is from the linked review and it is my iPad wallpaper now. Ripert eschews modernist techniques for the most part, focusing on laser perfect execution of mostly traditional methods and a pitch-perfect sense of flavor and balance. But his plating aesthetic in recent years seems to be trading heavily on the bright colors and visual patterns found on the plates of the more avant garde cooks out there. It's a fascinating combination of tradition and modernity. Now, more than ever, I would love to dine at Le Bernardin...... and it's only $125 prix fixe for a four-course meal. To be honest, considering how much other world-class restaurants charge, that's a pretty absurdly low sum of money for food of this quality.